Wednesday, June 10, 2015

In Love with Hemlock Tee!

Let's see: on Sunday afternoon on a whim I had cut out a Hemlock Tee (from Grainline Studio) out of a woven plaid fabric. During Me-Made-May I had seen so many wonderful woven Hemlock tees that I was just smitten. However, I was nervous about making one since it's one size and even though it's supposed to have a lot of ease built in for a loose fit, it was still intended for a small/medium. I am usually at least a large.

So, I got out my trusty Scout Tee pattern and compared it to the bodice of the Hemlock. They were very close so I thought it could fit me as-is. The sleeves, well, I was a bit doubtful, but in the spirit of being a scientific seamstress I wanted to make the first one "as is" out of this plaid fabric and figure out any changes from there. On the first go, I basted the garment for a fitting.

My first attempt was quite hilarious because my arms went into the sleeves and were like stuffed sausages. By then it was evening and I knew better than to try and solve a problem at night. But that didn't stop me from thinking about solutions to the problem. The easiest would be to cut another sleeve but bigger of course. The cheaper route would be to try adding a slip of fabric in to widen the sleeves, thereby still saving the yardage I had left. I was wondering whether I could find enough from the scraps to match the plaid but I was in luck!

Voila - not a bad pattern match!  I first slit the sleeve in half length down the center then inserted a strip of fabric about 3 inches in width. I did topstitch the seams down. I thought it would work better in the long run to do that.
I basted the garment a second time around. The sleeves fit. The bodice fit but it was longer than I'd like. I sheared off almost 5 inches just because I wanted this more 'croppish'. The plaid can seem a bit overpowering to the eye otherwise.


Another look at the sleeve seam. 
Overall, I am just in love with this pattern and can see why so many people made so many versions of this. Thank you, Jen, for this great and free pattern!  You can get the pattern here

The fabric, in case you are wondering, is a Japanese cotton from Miss Matatabi.  I have been trying to step out of my (happy Nani Iro) box and use some new-to-me fabrics so doing the plaid was a good stretch.  The fabric is also light and cool and even with sleeves, it works with this warm summery weather we've been having.

I also want to mention seeing a version of the Hemlock that I want to try next and that's a mashup between it and the Wiksten tank. You can find it here. I had discovered Felicia's blog, The Craft Sessions, a couple of months ago and I just love her makes. I could happily wear her closet any day!

I sneaked in this bit of sewing while the sunny days called me out to do gardening. I have a bunch of things to plant/tidy up and then I want to cut out more Hemlock tees but I also need to try my first Tiny Pocket Tank. I seem to be on a roll with Jen's patterns! 

Hope June's weather is coming up roses for you!

7 comments:

  1. It looks great! I made one out of the new anna maria horner woven (ahem, still need to blog it!) and it was a GREAT match. And, because I only had 1 1/2 yds of fabric, I took about 4-5 inches off the bottom as well and it was perfect!

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    1. Ha! Great minds think alike! Although I think I would not take so much off the length next time. Got a little carried away with the scissors!

      Looking forward to seeing your Hemlocks, Jen!

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  2. It looks wonderful! I had not thought of making it with a woven fabric!

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    1. Su, I was hesitant for the longest time to try the woven but so glad I did even if I did have to make some adjustments. You should give it a go!

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  3. I have been thinking about making the Hemlock although it is not a top priority for me right now. I like your version, especially with the plaid. You really like a good cropped top!

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    1. I am laughing, Caroline, because I did take more off the length than I'd intended. I was wearing a high waisted (black) skirt at the time and the two go together. The next time I wore the top with my capris which were more low cut and that was when I realized I will add 2 inches back in next time! ;-)

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  4. All these mashes and hacks are so interesting! I would never have thought of working a knit patten with wovens. Vice versa yes. Strange. As usual you did a great job with yours!

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